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Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present: Recipes and Ramblings from an American Beer Hall, by Paul Kahan Rachel Holtzman
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Review
“Paul Kahan has a global perspective with a Midwestern sensibility and the uncanny ability to put not only flavors, but also life, in balance. ‘Soulful’ and ‘authentic’ describe both the man and what he brings to the table. He is truly an inspiration.” –Chris Bianco, chef/owner of Pizzeria Bianco and author of Bianco “I have always wondered—perhaps somewhat jealously—why the food at The Publican in Chicago is so delicious. Then, one lovely April morning I sat down with my cappuccino and began to read Paul Kahan's first cookbook. I couldn't stop reading—and now I know how Paul packs so much flavor into his food. The effort he puts into sourcing and his balance of seasoning, marinating, cooking, and saucing is what turns his cooking into a concert of flavor. These recipes are so clearly written they will be easy to make at home. This is the most delicious book I've ever read.” —Nancy Silverton, co-owner of The Mozza Group and author of Mozza at Home “Paul Kahan is a Midwestern culinary wizard. He’s my type of chef—strong-willed, inquisitive, funny, and hungry—and I adore him for his stubborn ‘Why not?’ response to anything difficult. Cosmo Goss, is the perfect cohort for Paul. Together, they have created a new paradigm of American cooking, an amalgam of all the bounty the country has to offer, served lustily and with reverence. A terrific cookbook.” —Jonathan Waxman, chef/owner of Barbuto and author of Italian, My Way “My first stop when I arrive in Chicago—without exception—is The Publican. It's thrilling to read the amazing stories that represent so much more than just the recipes and see the inspiration that comes from the community of growers and friends who support the restaurant. Cheers to Paul Kahan and Cosmo Goss for this long overdue book!” —Stuart Brioza, co-chef/owner of State Bird Provisions and coauthor of State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook “This is a fascinating glimpse into what makes The Publican tick, filled with invaluable lessons in respect and responsibility plus pure deliciousness.” —Sean Brock, chef/owner of Husk and author of Heritage “Paul Kahan has mastered simplicity in cooking, and The Publican cookbook is quite simply as honest and authentic as a cookbook gets. Cheers to the Publican, indeed!” —Marc Vetri, chef/owner of Vetri and author of Mastering Pasta"Any page of the book reveals this food to be anything but simple and humble, no matter how many times Kahan and Goss assert that it is: The recipes are layered and multidimensional, they often ask the home cook to give half a dozen pans (or half a dozen days) to dinner.What this food has, instead of simplicity, is clarity: of flavor, philosophy, and intention, catapulted beyond the twee and precious by something that feels like recklessness but is actually just extraordinary skill. Whenever I’m at the Publican, I marvel to whomever I’m eating with that this is how I want to eat all the time. It turns out that’s possible, but it’s a lot harder than it looks. Maybe that’s the magic of it all."- Eater"This book—the first from the chefs behind one of Chicago's most treasured spots—is one giant toast to convivial American cuisine. It reads like a constitution, complete with an Anti-Tweezer Manifesto, containing mantras like "product maketh the dish," and recipes for the barbecue carrots and sour beer-steamed mussels that have amassed devout followers."- TASTING TABLE"If you can't score a seat at Paul Kahan's white-hot Chicago beer hall, feast your eyes on his recipes for grilled sardines, braised pork shoulder, and more."- MODERN FARMER
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About the Author
PAUL KAHAN is executive chef and partner of The Publican and One Off Hospitality Group and has become the nationally recognized face of the Chicago food landscape. His businesses--Blackbird, Avec, The Publican (downtown and O'Hare locations), Publican Anker, Big Star, Publican Quality Meats, Nico Osteria, Dove's Luncheonette, and The Violet Hour--are consistently top-rated in Chicago and nationally. In addition to leading food media, Kahan has been covered in USA Today, the Wall Street Journal, Vogue, Travel + Leisure, The Atlantic, and the New Yorker, among others. Food & Wine named Kahan a Best New Chef and the James Beard Foundation has recognized him as Best Chef Midwest.COSMO GOSS trained at Gramercy Tavern and is The Publican's executive chef. In 2015, Goss was named to Forbes magazine's "30 Under 30" list.
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Product details
Hardcover: 336 pages
Publisher: Lorena Jones Books (September 19, 2017)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0399578560
ISBN-13: 978-0399578564
Product Dimensions:
8.8 x 1.3 x 11.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 3.7 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
24 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#85,377 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Before we get into the gritty part of the review, (you don’t really need it) I am saying this is one of the most comprehensive books I have seen. So many amazing texts on the subject of food, it is ridiculous a new tome would cross my path and impress me so much as much. So let’s get to it.CONSTRUCTION:1. Cover: excellent and rugged. At first I thought I had received a used item, but the cover only LOOKS splotched and stained. This is a brilliant move and shows how even the cover connects to a pub-like restaurant. The cover art is bold and subdued at the same time featuring the blood pasta. Cover is solid and will withstand many hours on my commercial kitchen counters, as it will most likely be spending a majority of it’s life.2. Binding is a strong stitch and glue. Stitching is important to me, and it is apparent the authors actually expect the book to be used regularly.3. Pages are heavy with nice smooth feel, and are not so ‘white’ to blind you when reading. As I age I find this is an important thing.4. Text is crisp and easily read, along with bold type, where bold type is important. Excellent use of italics as well bringing attention to important factors of each formulae (recipe). Notes in the margins are nice addition.5. Page numeration are easy to follow, only being absent when full page color plates are used.6. Photos are great, full page color plates are beautiful and makes you want to dive into the food and/or setting, giving the reader a ‘I wish I was there right now!’ feel. I love the real-life shots of the artists at work and the feel of inclusiveness.CONTENT:First of all, let me just say that it drives me crazy the people who post poor book reviews that give really great books low reviews based on the availability of ingredients for their area. I’m not saying it isn’t annoying to not have the items available, but I also know that there are work arounds to these things. ‘Cheers’ is not pretentious at all about their ingredients. If you can’t get piment d’Espelette in your area, suck it up and throw in the best smoked paprika you can find. It’s not hard. I do wish they had helped me to understand what ‘AOC’ was, (appellation d’origine contrôlée) but a quick Google search fixed that.Introduction: was awesome! Loved the narrative. Anytime you can put ‘Trappist cheese’, ‘peasants’, and ‘Night Ranger’ together on a page is just plain smart. Well done Mr. Kahan. The homage to the ‘partners’ was a nice touch on page 7.Pantry: Really well written, simple and to the point.To The Mighty Vegetable: This is a surprisingly long section and smelled of Ottolenghi. I am anxious to try the Barbecue Carrots, and an upgraded version of Elotes. The spiced honey looks particularly interesting as well.The Seafood section is expansive and delicious looking. I admit I thumbed through these glancing here and there and look forward to adapting to our landlocked location, but it’s just not my ‘go-to’, from a restaurant perspective. Don’t be mistaken however, tons of ideas on Chicory, croutons, mayo, and sunchokes. Don’t skip it simply because of a lack of access to the fresh good sea stuff.Now to the one reason I pre-ordered the book. ‘Swine, Bovine, and Particularly Fowl’. With emphasis on the fowl. I have heard stupendous things about the Publican Chicken, and I have dreamt of having a ‘whole bird’ on the menu. This easy to perform recipe is welcome in ANY pub, restaurant, or home kitchen in the world! It can be a bit tricky learning how to debone a whole bird, but not impossible. This recipe is absolutely brilliant and I have executed it several times now.Surprise #1: Yes, I was surprised to see a section on Charcuterie. Even more surprised that the narrative is humble in the fact that these brilliant masterminds arn’t afraid to talk about their failures as much as their successes. This section reminds me so much of another great book ‘Olympia Provisions’ that I almost forgot I was reading ‘Cheers’. With enough of a narrative to embolden the home chef with the knowledge of how to tackle this art safely.Surprise #2: A complete section on offal, scraps and bits. Excellent! Even one of my favorite things, ‘fish collar’, which in my humble opinion is one of the most flavorful parts of the fish, and most don’t even know about it. Homemade butter cheese is enticing at the very least.Surprise #3: I love baking, particularly hearth style breads. I was completely shocked to see that there is an entire section of bread. Not just any bread, but real, honest to goodness sourdough. The real McCoy. Even employs Chad Robertsons technique (not sure who invented it, just stating where I had read it first of baking off in cast-iron pots) for airy, open-crumb hearth bread. A nice addition on cultured butter in this section too.A parting shot for publican waffle with honey butter rounds out the book with the important ‘Sources’ section, Acknowledgments (yes I read them) a nice expansive appendix and a little more about the authors. The epistemology here is important and suddenly the reader goes, ‘OOOHHH, of course ‘Gramercy’.So, yes, long review. If you are still on the fence about buying this, I totally understand, no book can be that good….could it? My answer is yes, if for no other reason than to pull off the Publican Chicken, and dream about all the others.
It is so, so rare for a chef to wait this long to create a book, but I'm really glad that Paul Kahan did.The benefit, I think, is an incredible confidence and ease with which he writes. The success, the multiple restaurants, the new projects are all behind him. He's had an opportunity to see relationships start and end, trends come and go, and ride the roller coaster of restaurants for a long time.The result is a deeply thoughtful, very personal, and drool-inducing tome. The recipes speak directly to the ingredients and the seasons and the people that help Paul love what he does. The added perspective of his partner in crime, Cosmo, adds another layer to how the dishes were chosen and where the influences derive.For anyone who loves restaurants that have endured trends and heatmaps and IG worthy dishes, particularly in Chicago, you should own this book. It is a gem.
Paul Kahan delivers with his first cookbook from my favorite restaurant in the world. The Publican's menu and drink list always has something for everyone and so does this book. There are plenty of recipes that can be handled by the home cook, as well as more advanced ones for chefs. Vegetarian, Vegan or Carnivore you will find something in this book to love. Cheers!
Such an awesome cookbook - has a bunch of unique, tasty recipes, with a mix of easy/approachable and more challenging dishes. The Honeycrisp Apple and Kohlrabi Salad with Burnt Chile Chimichurri was unbelievable! Paul mentions how much he respects Suzanne Goin a few times throughout the book, and it was funny, because this cookbook reminds me a lot of A.O.C., her epic book.
I enjoyed the read, but it really is less of a cookbook, and more of a gateway into a cooking lifestyle. I mean that in as good a way as possible. I loved the book, but it encompasses very high level cooking, and a diverse range of preparation methods. Anyone wishing to not just cook better, but understand cooking should get into this book. As my headline suggests, this is not an instructional manual for anyone looking to simply put together a meal. This is a cultural choice. Enjoy.
Best chicken I have ever made, The Publican Chicken. I did order the specialty spice from Amazon.
Awesome book from an awesome restaurant. Very easy to follow recipes.
Great book with tons of perspective and reasoning behind what they do at the publican. Definitely one of the most inspiring relatable cookbooks I’ve picked up in the last couple years.
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